Jacket
I wanted to create a bold shape on the back of the jacket. So I did some research into how to create interesting shapes with simple seam lines and found this technique in the book Pattern Magic by Tomoko Nakamichi. I also used the jacket block to create the new jacket pattern as I was not happy with the fit of my original jacket. I transferred the original lapel and neckline for the collar to the pattern and kept the original jacket length.
Measurements for centre pattern piece.
To create the shape in the back piece I had to do lots of slashing and spreading.
I had issues with the shoulder seam matching up. I managed to fix this when sewing the toile and need to mark the new shoulder on the back piece.
To create the centre back piece I had to do a few calculations to ,make sure I did the slashing and spreading to get the correct measurements.
Due to all of the calculations required and the slashing and the large amount of slashing and spreading it took me two full days to create this pattern.
Dress
To create the dress toile I used a basic dress block that I already had and started to draw design lines on it and then cut them. This left me with an interesting halter neckline shape that I love and lots of wavy pieces of fabric hanging as the skirt. From this I decided that the wavy skirt pieces would be an overskirt in organza, so I sewed another piece of fabric to the bodice under the overskirt to create an underskirt. Once I have made an initial pattern for the dress I am considering using the wave technique from the back of the jacket on the wave pieces of the overskirt to create an interesting 3D shape.
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