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The Fit Session

Before the fit I changed my jacket toile to add a wave design element to the back and removed the bulbous shapes at the front to make the design more streamlined. I wanted to continue this wave shape into the front of the jacket through the pockets and lapel and collar shape.

 

To create my first dress toile I used a basic dress block that I already had and started to draw design lines on it and then cut them. Once I had cut the skirt up I decided that it would be an overskirt in organza, so I sewed another piece of fabric to the bodice under the overskirt to create the base of the dress.

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Going into the fit I wanted to check these elements of the garments or add them:​

Jacket

  • Overall fit especially the sleeve length

  • Change the shape of the lapel and collar

  • Add Pockets

  • Check the fit over the dress

  • Mark positions for closures​

Dress

  • Neck and back fit

  • Bust fit

  • Underskirt fit

  • Attaching the overskirt at the hem

Fitting: The Jacket Toile

Fitting: The Dress & Jacket Toile

Fitting: The Dress Toile

Patternmaking and Construction

IMG_4811.jpeg

Jacket marked with red marker to transfer design lines, pockets and notches to pattern.

Outcome of Fitting:

Jacket

  • The sleeves were too long so I marked the new sleeve length.

  • I changed the shape of the lapel and collar to fit more with the overall look of the garment.

  • I added a side pocket and breast pocket which were the same style as the 3D wave design at the back of the jacket.

  • The fit of the jacket over the dress was good though I am not sure if the length of the jacket and dress work well together.

  • I marked the placement of the magnet closures on the centre front

  • I also decided to use a magnet closure on the side pocket to hold the 3D shape and to close the pocket.

  • The jacket works well with my theme of the birds eye view with the use of 3D shapes making it look like a landscape from a above but also making it interesting to view from the birds eye view. 

 

Dress

  • I need to create the whole dress pattern from the toile as this was the first toile based on a dress block that has been changed significantly.

  • I love the neckline shape of the dress, on the pattern I need to adjust the back of the halter neck to fit me.

  • The back of the dress was not fitted enough for the halter neck style, so I need to take it in at the sides and centre back.

  • The bust of the dress fit perfectly.

  • I need to create an underskirt pattern to attach to the bodice

  • I need to turn the wave pieces into individual pattern pieces to be attached to the bodice

  • I also need to mark where the overskirt wave pieces will attach together at the overskirt hem.

  • I am also considering using the wave technique from the back of the jacket on the wave pieces of the overskirt to create an interesting 3D shape.

  • The dress works well with my theme of the birds eye view with the wave overskirt making it look like a landscape from above.

Specification Sheets

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